Introduction
was founded in the 11th century. It is the former capital of Monton Kmer and lies in the heart of
the Northwest of Cambodia. Until the war years, in which almost every infrastructure was
destructed it was the leading rice-producing province of the country.
The name Battambang or Batdambang, literally means "loss of stick" referring to a legend of the
Preah Bat Dambang Kranhoung (Kranhoung Stick King). The population is nowadays around
250,000 people . It’s a riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved, French colonial
architecture in the country. Until recently Battambang was off the map for road travellers, but
facilities have recently been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples,
such as Phnom Banon and Wat Ek Phnom, as well as the closedby villages. It's a secondary hub
on the overland route between Thailand and Vietnam, and if the National Highway No 6 from
Poipet to Siem Reap is ever upgraded it'll become an even smaller hub. The network of charming
old French shop houses clustered along the riverbank is the real highlight here, and there are a
number of Wats scattered around the town. The small museum has a collection of Angkorian-era
artifacts, and beyond the town there's a number of hilltop temples, yet more Wats and a pretty
large lake. One of the more famous hills is Phnom Sampeau (Ship Hill) with the notorious killing
caves.
Battambang did not give way to the Khmer Rouge movement after the fall of Phnom Penh, but
it’s been in the centre of the ongoing government Khmer Rouge conflict ever since the
Vietnamese invasion in 1979 pushed the genocidal regime out of Phnom Penh and to the
Northwest.
Until the surrender deal of Ieng Sary (Khmer Rouge number three man based in
Pailin),Battambang was the Khmer Rouge stronghold in the region.
In the earlier history Battambang flip-flopped back and forth between Thailand (called Siam
before their 20th-century renaming) and Cambodia. It’s been a part of Thailand most of the time
since the 15th century, with Cambodia regaining control (more specifically due the French) in
1907. The Thais grabbed it again, with Japanese assistance, in 1941 and kept the region in their
camp until the World War II years in 1947.
The Allied Forces helped persuade the Thais that the region was originally part of ancient
Cambodia and the world community would not take kindly to the Thais holding onto it further.
Like the rest of the Northwest, there is still a lot of Thai influence apparent. The main currency
is still the Thai Baht and many people are able to converse in Thai. But the area is very Khmer,
with ancient Khmer ruins scattered around, and even the ways of life are much more similar to
the rest of Cambodia than to Thailand.
Battambang city is a peaceful and pleasant place these days. The main parts of the city are
situated closed to the Sangker River, a tranquil, small body of water that winds its way through
Battambang Province. It is a nice, picturesque setting. As with much of Cambodia, the French
architecture is an attractive bonus of the city.
Geography
population around 1/4 million people).
It is located in one of the biggest rice-growing areas in Southeast Asia. The average altitude of
the province is around 50m. The province is bordering to the North with Banteay Meanchey, to
the West with Thailand, to the East and South with Pursat and the great lake Tonle Sap. The
country’s total surface is about 11,702 sq/km with around 67.7 inh/sqkm.
The city is on both the highway and railroad linking Phnom Penh with Thailand; after the
outbreak (1970) of civil war in Cambodia, the Battambang–Phnom Penh road was a prime target
of the Khmer Rouge insurgents, who, by capturing it, severed Phnom Penh from its major source
of rice.
Battambang was acquired by Thailand in 1809 and returned to Cambodia in 1907. The city has
also a technical university.
Population
The population census in 2007 shows that Battambang is a
densely populated province with male 511,378 and female
525,145 and total population of 1,036,523 people.
The population density is 68 per km2, which is slightly higher
than the national density of 64. The population of this province
constitutes 6.9% of the whole Cambodian population. The
percentage of female population accounts for 51%.
Climate
Cambodia has a tropical monsoon climate. During the rainy season between mid-April and mid-
October the Mekong swells and backs into the Tonle Sap (Great Lake), increasing the size of
the lake almost threefold. Between November and April winds are less strong and there are
higher temperatures (up to 35°C).
General information about the climate:
- Rainy season: June - October (<31c)>26c)
- Hot season: March- May : Temperature: from 28c -35c
Econamy
The Battambang Rice were the principal exports of Cambodia,
but exports fell sharply after the onset of the civil war, which
put most of the rubber plantations out of operation.
By the 1990s, however, rubber plantings had been undertaken
as part of a national recovery program.
When we talk about tropical fruites, the Battambang orange is
the most famouse among the people. Until recently, inadequate
transportation hampered exploitation of the country's vast
forests, but by the mid-1990s timber had become the largest source of export income.
Exploitation of mineral resources like phosphate rock, limestone, semiprecious stones, and salt
supports important local mining operations. Inflation was 1.6% in 2002, whereas official
unemployment figures amounted to 2.6%. Due to closed Thailand there is quite a lot of financial
influx from foreign (Thai) investors.
How to get there
From Phnom Penh to Battambang it’s about 291km via national
road number 5.
It is accessable from Thailand via Pailin, Banteay Meanchey.
Generally from Siem Reap to Battambang can be via air and
overland.
Today, there is no operating flight to this province yet at the
moment.
Speed Boat
During the rainy season, it’s a good alternative to the shared taxi. The road from Siem Reap to
Sisophanis is quite lousy. So therefore it’s best to take the opportunity of a nice and relaxing
boat trip.
The dry season eventually makes this impassable as the river water level goes down. Departing
from Siem Reap taking the 7 am boat, you’ll arrive at Battambang about 10:30 am. The cost is
around US$ 10-15 per person, depending on demand. So it’s negotiable.
Departing from Phnom Penh taking the 7-8am boat, you’ll arrive at Battambang around 3-4pm.
The cost is around US$ 16-22 per person.
Share Taxi
Battambang to Phnom Penh 300 baht (US$ 10)
Battambang to Sisophon 50 baht (US$ 1.7)
Battambang to Pursat 100 baht (US$ 3.4)
Train
The old saying goes “there is no such thing as a free lunch,” but in Cambodia, the old train is
still free…. for foreigners, that’s it. However, it will just cost you some time (maybe some
officers will ask you for a creative donation). The Phnom Penh to Battambang journey usually
takes about thirteen to fourteen hours, if no mishaps occure.
The scenery is not nearly as stunning as parts of the Phnom Penh-Kampot-Sihanoukville routes,
but you certainly will get a good sampling of rural agriculture scenery.
Schedule:
Phnom Penh to Battambang –departs between 6:20 & 7 am daily
Sisophon to Battambang –departs at around 2 pm daily
Battambang to Phnom Penh –departs between 6:30 & 7 am daily
Battambang to Sisophon –departs between 6:45 & 7:15 am daily
Motorcycle Touring Info
Riding by motorcycle is the best way to see the countryside and the sights along the way. You
may stop by at some pagodas or ancient temples on the national road No 5.
Battambang to Phnom Penh
It’s a tough but definitely doable road if you are on a motorcycle circuit tour. They are slowly
(slower than an ant’s pace) resurfacing sections between Battambang, Pursat and Kampong
Chhnang, from which the road is then pretty fair to Phnom Penh.
On the Battambang –Phnom Penh highway, daytime security is not a problem, but at night
scores of military checkpoints spring up with logs being put across the road so that vehicles
stop. They just want a “toll fee” but it’s not a fun time of the day to be dealing with the
soldiers as they are pretty liquored up by then. Avoid possible problems and just ride of taxi
during daylight hours.
Battambang to Sisophon
The trip is about 64 km and takes about 11/2 hours. Battambang to Pursat is about 103 km and
takes about three hours. Battambang to Phnom Penh takes about six to eight hours, depending
greatly on whether you are riding yourself or in a share taxi (which mostly takes longer).
The road between Battambang and Pailin is a very rough road that has only a few decent
stretches –it’s a lot better than it was a few years back, but that knowledge won’t mean much
to your sore tail-side.
Security is not a problem. Getting to Phnom Banan is easy-just head south on the River Road
(Road1) about 20 km, which at a moderate pace should take just over half and hour. You can’t
miss the big hill with the temple on top, visible on the right side of the road.
Turn right at the dirt road that runs smack into the middle of the hill. There are drinks and snack
stands near the base of the stairway going up. There is also a dirt road going to the left by the
stands that you could take up, but take the stairway as the Khmers did at the time the temple
was in use.
It’s part of the fun. A round-trip moto-taxi from Battambang is approximately 120 baht (US$
4.5) including their waiting time.
Where to eat
Good Khmer Restaurants
Across the street from the Angkor Hotel and near Road 2 are a
few good Khmer restaurants. The doublewide one in the middle
is usually packed and has the best food. The other restaurants
aren’t bad either. All have very reasonable prices.
Restaurants over the Lions Bridge
There are also a couple of good Khmer restaurants across the
Lions Bridge near the statue circle on the right.
The first one you come to is the Sub-I-na. It’s simple place with good Khmer and Chinese food.
Better yet is the Sopheak Mongkul just beyond the Sub-I-na. The owner is a very friendly
Khmer lady that speaks English and likes to chat while her staff is tending to you.
Good food, and the owner will custom-make dishes for you if they’re not on the menu.
Wat Leap Restaurant.
On the winding river road heading north - the part that comes away from the river for a few
blocks. It’s close to the temple of the same name. Khmer and Chinese food with English
speaking staff that are very friendly and attentive.
If you are dining alone the lady that manages the place figures that you are not happy so she
has a waitress or two sit down to chat with you.
The food is good. There are also karaoke rooms in the back end, but the noise does not seem to
travel into the restaurant.
Teo Hotel
They have the top restaurant in town, featuring good Western, Khmer and Chinese fare at
reasonable prices. If you are craving Western food, this is the spot for you
Cold Night Restaurant (T’s)
This place has the best Western food in town and also good Asian food in a nice relaxed setting
it’s popular with ex-pat workers living in Battambang. It’s located on East River Road 2 and is
next to the hotel.
Where to stay
7 Makara Hotels
Pleasant grounds and your choice for the rock-bottom price in
Battambang. For value, however, some of the other choices
are better. An ugly, Spartan room with nothing but a bed goes
for US$ 1.80, US$ 4 for a room with a bath outside, US$ 5 for
a room with Western bath and TV, add a/c for US$ 8.
Golden Parrot Guesthouse
A simple, cleanplace with a terrace for viewing the Nat Market.
Western bath. US$ 10 with a/c. with a/c.
Royal Hotel (formerly 23 Tola Hotel)
New ownership, recently nicely renovated. Friendly English speaking Khmer lady is the owner.
US$ 4 fan, US$ 5 with TV, US$ 10 with a/c, h/w shower.
Monorom Guesthouse
Right on the river. Western bath. TV, fan. Try to grab a room with a window. US$ 5 per night.
Chaiya Hotel
Good value, but no English spoken. Western bath, clean, terrace, TV. Fan US$ 5, add a/c for
US$ 10.
Paris Hotel
Again, good value and clean, but no English. Western bath, terrace, fridge, TV. Fan US$ 5. A/c
is a good deal here at US$ 8.
Khemara Hotel
Similar to the neighbors, the Chaiya and Paris Hotels. Clean rooms withfan US$ 5, with a/c US$
10.
With so many choices close at hand, this one is too noisy with the Khmer nightclub to justify a
stay.
Oda Hotel
This is the place on the Phnom Penh side of the Lion Bridge. It’s a 50s-style place, and has
friendly, English speaking staff. A clean, simple room with a large bed, TV, fridge, Western bath
and a/c is a good value at US$ 8. A room with two beds is US$ 10. There are also massage girls
working there.
Angkor Hotel
Located on the west river road, the hotel has a nice setting and is well situated for the evening
recreation along the river. The very friendly staff is a helpful source of information on things to
see around Battambang.
The front rooms are especially nice with a wrap-around terrace on each floor for viewing the
river and watching people. Also the best spot for renting a moto-taxi to self-tour. Cars, with
driver, for rent as well. A/c, cable TV, h/w shower, one large or two small beds. Clean place.
Good value at US$ 10 a night.
Heng Leng Hotel
On East Road 2, heading for Highway 5 and Phnom Penh. Nice, clean place with Western bath,
TV, a/c rooms for US$ 10.
Teo Hotel
Definitely the big boy in town, it’s where the higher up government and military types stay when
they come calling in Battambang. There is a friendly, English-speaking staff in this well-caredfor
hotel.
Rooms that feature all the amenities and come with a large and small bed are US$15. There are
some larger, more tricked out rooms that go for US$ 20. A climb to the roof level will get you a
room with all the amenities for US$ 10.
La Villa
Nicely restored 1930s colonial house. Six rooms with a/c and fan, stylishly decorated with
antiques and Art Deco furniture. Western and Asian food and a wide selection of cocktails
served in the a/c restaurant or garden. $40-$50. Tel: 012-991801, 012-826186 E-mail:
lavilla@online.com.kh
Park Hotel New hotel
overlooking a nice little park near the entrance to town. A/c and fan rooms with attached
bathroom, cable TV, hot water and fridge. $5-$12. Tel: 053-953773, 012-817170 E-mail:
park_hotelbtb@yahoo.com
Spring Park Hotel
Brand new hotel located near the New Iron Bridge at the south end of town. A/c and fan rooms
with all amenities and en suite bathroom. Conference room. $6-$35. Tel: 012-849999
Shopping
Phsar Nath
In the centre of the town is the main Phsar (traditional market) and is geared to the locals,
sporting the usual variety of fruits, vegetables, meat, clothes, sundries, food stalls, etc.
Gem dealers
A couple of banks, photo shops and moneychangers line the streets that ring the Phsar. Phsar
Leu, just south of town, seems to be the place to buy the local specialties: oranges and
pomelos from Pursat province.
The oranges are said to be the best oranges in the country. Chea Heang Drink Shop on the
west side of Phsar Nath offers ice cream bars, cheeses, yogurt, wines, and other imported
items.
Where to see
Banteay Sat
Banteay Sat How is 105 km (2h) From Provincial Town. Historical Sites and Buildings, Location:
Koh Village, Kaoh Chiveang Commune, Aek Phnom District.
Barsaet Temple
Barsaet Temple is located in Barsaet Villlage, Tapoan commune, Sangke District, about 15
kilometers east of Battambang provincial town. The temple was built in the 11th century,
between AD 1036 and 1042, during the region of King Suryavarman I (AD 1002-1050). This
temple was seriously damaged, and only the door frame remains. Next to this temple, there is an
ancient pond that is 20 meters long, 12 meters wide and 10 meters deep. It hold water year
round.
Dang Tung
Dang Tung How to go: 54 Km (3H:20mn) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Nature
wildlife and Preserves, Location: Danng Tung Village, Phlov Meas Commune, Rattanakmundul
District.
Gold Buddha Hill
This one is for your journey to Sisophan if you are heading that way (60 km or so from
Battambang ). It’s easy to spot from the road. See the Sisophan section for more details.
Kamping Puoy Bassin
Kamping Pouy Bassin is located between two mountains Phnom Ku or Phnom Ta Ngen and Phnom
Kamping Pouy - in Ta Nget Village, Ta Kream Srok commune, about 35 kilometers west of the
provincial town.
This gigantic civil-engineering project was central to the Khmer Rouge’s plan to irrigate the
countryside around Battambang. Tragically, the construction of the Kamping Puoy Reservoir
resulted in the deaths of tens of thousands of people. Unlike the victims of S21 and Choeung Ek
most of the deaths on the Kamping Puoy project were caused by malnutrition, disease,
overwork or mistreatment. The deaths were in short, preventable. A gripping, visceral and
painfully honest account of life in Battambang under the Khmer Rouge was written by Haing S.
Ngor, the Cambodian doctor, actor and community worker who won an oscar for the film The
Killing Fields. His book Survival in Cambodia's Killing Fields is perhaps the most eloquent account
of day-to-day life during the Pol Pot period. It is laced with insights into the Khmer psyche and
is ultimately a heartbreaking read.
Kamping Pouy Bassin is 6meters long and 1,900 meters wide. During the rainy season the basin
can hold 110 million cubic metere of water, which is used primarily for agriculture. Kamping Pouy
basin is vital to this area. It is now a popular picnic site for residents of Pailin and Battambang
because of its fresh air. Lotus flowers grow in the water and nearby you can buy lotus seeds to
eat (they are delicious and taste a bit like sweet, uncooked peas). Takream Commune in Banan
District is the nearest settlement.
Phnom Banan
Adapts the architecture of mid 11th century and the end of 12th century the temple was first
built by king, Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya Varman II (1050-1066) and then was finally built by the king,
Jarvarman VII (1181-1219). The temple is located on the top of approximate 400-meter
heighten mountain at Kon Tey 2 commune, Ba Nan District in 25-kilometer distance from the
provincial town by the provincial Road No 155 parallel to Sang Ke River. At the mountain’s
valley, there are Ku Teuk and two main natural wells, namely: Bit Meas and Chhung or Chhung
Achey.
This Angkor-era mountaintop temple is definitely worth a look. At the top are beautiful views of
the winding Sangker River set amidst sugar palm trees, rice fields and small villages. To the
south you will see a mountain range that features a crocodile shaped mountain.
The temple itself is beautiful looking from the ground as well as the top. The structures are
pretty much intact, but unfortunately like so many Khmer ruins, they have fallen victim to
massive looting. Still, there are some interesting works to see. There are five temple structures,
like Angkor, with the middle being the largest. (Use caution around the entrance to the center
structure-there is a large hanging block-a headache-in-waiting for some poor soul). As with
Preah Vihear Temple (close to the Thai border in the province of the same name), there are a
couple of big guns on the mountaintop next to the ruins. The guns are still pointing down at the
surrounding area as they were during the more recent years of the government-Khmer Rouge
skirmishes.
It’s part of the sad irony of Cambodia that a place built for worship, harmony and tranquility was
utilized as a place for making war. Looking down the hillside to the southwest you can see more
of the ruins. As always, if you go looking around, STAY ON THE WORN PATHWAYS AND TRAILSthere
may still be undiscovered landmines.
Phnom Kdoung
Phnom Kdoung How to go: 14 km (1h) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Nature
wildlife and Preserves, Location: Kdong Village, Phnom Sampov Commune. Banann District.
Phnom Sampeou Mountain
Phnom Sampeou is a natural site located along National Road 57 in Sampeou Commune,
Battambang district, about 12Kilometers of Battambang city. Atop a 100-meter-high mountain
stands a pagoda and threee natural caves: Pkasla, Lakhaon and Aksopheak. Pkasla cave is full
of uprooted stones and is considered important because it is where Phnom Sampeou residents
come to celebrate after a marriage.
Next to Phnom Sampeou are several important mountain clusters, including Phnom Kdaong,
Phnom Krapeu(The Crocodile Mountain), Phnom Trung Moan, Phnom Trung Teat and Phnom
Neang Romsay Sok. All are related to the Khmer Folktale titled Reachkol Neang Romsay Sok.
Phnom Trong Morn Trong Tea
15 KM (40mn) From Provincial Town. Nature wildlife and Preserves, Location: Samnagn Village,
Phnom Sampov Commune, Banann District.
Pich Chenda
Pich Chenda How to go: 44 km (2h) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Nature wildlife
and Preserves, Location: Treng Commune, Rattanakmundul District.
Prasat Sneung
The Sneung temples are devided into two parts - East Sneung and West Sneung. The East
Sneung temple is located in Sneung Pagoda, Sneung Commune, Banan Distric, about
22kilometers soutwest of the provincial town. The temple, constructed of bricks on a hill, is
30meters long and 20meters wide. It features three separate shrines and is similar in style to
other temples built during the 12th century. Behind the temple is a newer temple.
The West Sneung temple is constructed of sandstone and is located near National Road 57 (The
former National Road 10)
River Sightseeing & Boat Rentals
Just north of the Cobra Bridge, on the west bank, you will see a lot of boats hugging he
riverbank. You can hire a non-motorized small wooden boat for around 4,000 Riel, and a
motorized boat (if available) for around USD5 an hour. It’s a pleasant way to wee the river life
around Battambang town. There is also a boat you can take to Siem Reap for a smooth
alternative to the lousy highway (see Coming and Going section).
Sek Sork
Sek Sork is the natural resort, which has been popular since before the civil war time. Sek Sork
stretches along the river bank full of plant, trees and bamboo-green nature in 500-meter length.
Regarding to Sek Sork, tourists can also visit other attractive sites like Pich Chenda Dangtung
water bubble amd Laang Spean Andet site, which are only about 6 kilometers away.
Sek Sak located in Treng commune, Rotanak Mondul District in 50-kilometer distance southwest
of the provincial town of Battambang along the National Road No 57, the former National Road
No 10.
Wat Ek Phnom
Situated about 10 km north of the Cobra Bridge are the ruins of Ek Phnom. It was built during
the Bayon period and unfortunately is much worse for the wear than Phnom Banan.It’s an
interesting place, however, because there is a freshly constructed working temple right in front
of the ruins. This temple, along with the temple ruins, is the center of holiday festivities for the
people of the nearby village. They dress up in their Sunday best and have a celebration
between the old and the new temples and climb all around the ruins with their families.
The ruins are on a very small hill so there is no workout involved in viewing them much of the
temple is in shambles and was heavily looted. There are still some sitting Buddha images intact
higher up on the walls. On the inside is a carving of a tug-of-war with participants tugging away
on a serpent. The participants on the left have lost their heads to looters (they lost face), with
the guys on the right still having their heads intact.
Ek Phnom is also easy to get to-just head north on the River Road (Road 1) a bit over 10 km
(the road north of the Cobra Bridge snakes around a bit, but goes back to the river). As you are
getting close to the temple, you will pass over a small concrete bridge. The road beyond will
veer off to the right, but the modern temple is there to the left. Enter the new temple grounds
and the ruins are located to the rear. Again, a round-trip moto-taxi is about 120 baht from
Battambang.
Wat Gahndahl
Located on the east bank of the Sanker River, the temple is a simple and run down place. There
is an unusual wall mural on the outside of the temple that features a progressing story of a bad
dude that apparently killed his own mother and finally had to board a boat bound for hell.
Strange, indeed.
The interesting feature of this wat is the Angkor replica about 110 meters sown a dirt path from
the rear area of the temple. It was built in 1969 over a small concrete pool and is the pride of
the monks staying there. They say spirits and relics of deceased monks are housed inside.
Battambang is not short on temples and you will see many more around town and on the way to
the sights outside of town.
Wat Pee-Pahd
Located between River Road 1 and Road 2, this temple is set amidst pleasant grounds and is an
important spiritual center for Buddhism in Battambang.
Wat Tahm-rai-saw (White Elephant Pagoda)
Situated between Roads 2 and 3, this ornate temple is worth a look, especially during the Khmer
New Year festivities when it becomes the happening place in town for festivities. Entertainment,
classical dancing and plenty of water and good luck for the coming year.
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